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Fragmentary Loom Width with Wavy-Vine Pattern

ca. 1565–80
Not on view
Spectacular, large‑pattern silks were favored materials for luxury garments among the courtly elite of sixteenth-century Istanbul, and were often used for the bold, richly colored caftans of the Ottoman sultans. The weave here, referred to in Turkish as kemha, incorporates metal‑wrapped thread into a lampas, or multiweave fabric. Ottoman kemha fabrics typically combine a satin ground with a design executed in twill and highlighted with gold. Catching the light, their glittering patterns appear to float above a shimmering background.

Artwork Details

Object Information
  • Title: Fragmentary Loom Width with Wavy-Vine Pattern
  • Date: ca. 1565–80
  • Geography: Attributed to Turkey, probably Istanbul
  • Medium: Silk, metal wrapped thread; lampas (kemha)
  • Dimensions: Textile: L. 48 in. (121.9 cm)
    W. 26 1/2 in. (67.3 cm)
    Mount: L. 53 1/4 in. (135.3 cm)
    W. 32 in. (81.3 cm)
    D. 1 in. (2.5 cm)
  • Classification: Textiles
  • Credit Line: Purchase, Joseph Pulitzer Bequest, 1952
  • Object Number: 52.20.21
  • Curatorial Department: Islamic Art

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Tughra (Insignia) of Sultan Süleiman the Magnificent (r. 1520–66), Ink, opaque watercolor, and gold on paper
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"The Angel Gabriel meets 'Amr ibn Zaid (the Shepherd)", Folio from a Siyer-i Nebi (the Life of the Prophet), Mustafa ibn Vali, Ink, opaque watercolor, and gold on paper
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ca. 1595
Textile Fragment, Silk, metal wrapped thread; lampas (kemha)
Textile Fragment
mid-16th century
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