Designer: Emanuel Ungaro (French, born 1933)

Date: 1967

Culture: French

Medium: cotton

Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Leonard Holzer, 1970

Accession Number: 1970.89.1a–c


As fashion's last absolute decree entered its concluding phase, skirts became shorter and shorter until they atrophied into short shorts, or, in the phrase of the day, hot pants. In a couture playsuit with matching leggings, the elastic fabric has been hand-appliquéd with white braid. In the youth-impassioned tumult of the time, there was an equivocation between Warhol superstar and couture client. As self-consciously insurrectionist as the political gesture is, the craft of the garment is, like Chanel's "little black dress," traditional.