Le Colis de Trianon-Versailles and Paris Openings

These costumes reveal the supreme and unsurpassed craftsmanship of the couture métier in the five years leading up to World War II.
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Evening dress, House of Worth  French, silk, beads, metal thread, French
House of Worth
1925
Evening ensemble, Alix  French, silk, French
Alix
Madame Grès (Germaine Émilie Krebs)
1935
Evening jacket, Schiaparelli  French, linen, metal, French
Multiple artists/makers
fall 1937
Evening dress, Mainbocher  French and American, silk, French
Mainbocher
Mainbocher
ca. 1938
Evening dress, House of Vionnet  French, silk, spangles, French
House of Vionnet
Madeleine Vionnet
fall/winter 1938–39
Evening ensemble, House of Chanel  French, silk, plastic, suede, glass, French
House of Chanel
Gabrielle Chanel
fall/winter 1938–39
Evening dress, House of Vionnet  French, metal thread, French
House of Vionnet
Madeleine Vionnet
1939
Court presentation ensemble, Schiaparelli  French, silk, feathers, French
Schiaparelli
Elsa Schiaparelli
fall 1938
Evening dress, Mainbocher  French and American, silk, spangles, French
Mainbocher
Mainbocher
spring/summer 1939
Evening ensemble, Schiaparelli  French, silk, French
Schiaparelli
Elsa Schiaparelli
1939
"Cyclone", House of Lanvin  French, silk, spangles, French
House of Lanvin
Jeanne Lanvin
1939

With the final declaration of war on September 3, 1939, the blithe world of le beau monde collapsed and many members rallied to the war effort. Lady Mendl and the Duchess of Windsor established a charity known as “Le Colis de Trianon-Versailles,” which sent “soldiers’ boxes” to the frontline trenches of France. As Lady Mendl stated in a letter enlisting support for the charity in America, “As two American-born women, whose lives and interests are so interwoven with those of France, the Duchess of Windsor and myself now turn to our friends at home and ask for their help. We have all enjoyed many hours of happiness in our beloved France so will you now help in some measure to repay the debt we owe?”

Mrs. Ector Munn and Mrs. Harrison Williams, among others, chaired the American branch of Le Colis de Trianon-Versailles. In 1940, with the support of Lady Mendl and the Duchess of Windsor, they organized the exhibition Paris Openings to raise money for the French war charity. Held at the John Wanamaker Auditorium in New York, the exhibition featured evening dresses worn by members of the Windsor set. Each dress was chosen for its “hallowed memory,” a dress that had been worn on some “Great Occasion.” These costumes reveal the supreme and unsurpassed craftsmanship of the couture métier in the five years leading up to World War II. At the same time, they reveal how the Duchess of Windsor and her set conscripted fashion—the very expression of their blithe lives—as a unified display of their support for the war effort.


Contributors

Andrew Bolton
The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art

October 2004


Further Reading

Beaton, Cecil. Cecil Beaton's Scrapbook. London: B. T. Batsford, 1937.

Menkes, Suzy. The Windsor Style. London: Grafton, 1987.

Sotheby's. Property from the Collection of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. Sale cat. New York, Sotheby's, February 19–24, 1998. New York: Sotheby's, 1997.

Tapert, Annette, and Diana Edkins. The Power of Style: The Women Who Defined the Art of Living Well. New York: Crown, 1994.

The Duchess of Windsor. The Heart Has Its Reasons. London: Michael Joseph, 1956.

The Duke of Windsor. A King's Story. London: Cassell, 1951.

The Duke of Windsor. A Family Album. London: Cassell, 1960.

Ziegler, Philip. King Edward VIII. London: Collins, 1990.


Citation

View Citations

Bolton, Andrew. “Le Colis de Trianon-Versailles and Paris Openings.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/psop/hd_psop.htm (October 2004)