Design for a Gold Pendant with a Cross of Turquoises and Diamonds

Drawing with a design for a gold pendant with a cross of turquoises and diamonds that is part of a collection of 85 drawings with figurative designs for earrings, brooches, pendants and other jewels, possibly real-sized, created with graphite and gouache and heightened with gold inside lithograph frames. These designs are all characteristic of the period between 1870 and 1900, when jewelry design saw a great degree of innovation and creativity in both style and technique. Some of the most important innovations that took place at this time included the setting of diamonds without metal on the back to reinforce the refraction of light on the cut surfaces of the stones, and the use of gold granules and cannetille (scrolls of metal strips) in the creation of fine metal surfaces. (Semi-)precious stones continued to be used in jewelry design at this time, especially with the discovery of diamond mines in South Africa, although alternative techniques, many of them inspired on ancient jewelry, were also common: Enamel in its different application techniques (including champlevé, cloisonné, and low-relief) was particularly popular. In addition to enamel, colored glass was used to add touches of color to the metallic structures that formed the base of the jewels. In general, jewelry design during this period became more complex, and the colors in nature were mimicked by the color of gemstones used for jewelry design: the designs were elaborate and relied in the natural beauty of cabochon gems, curving, and figurative designs with symbolic meaning, typical of the Arts and Crafts movement. Towards the end of the nineteenth century, the Art Nouveau movement created sinuous and organic pieces that moved away from conventional stones and put emphasis on the subtle effects of materials such as glass, horn and enamel. The European Middle Ages and the Renaissance, as well as civilizations of the Mediterranean, and even Japan, became important sources of inspiration for jewelry design at this time.

This design for a pendant is made up of a gold hasp with a chain of small gold rings that holds an oval-shaped gold motif. A gold chain hangs from the gold motif, holding a cross motif made up of square-cut turquoises and decorated with square-cut diamonds in the center and around the intersection of the cross. The pendant is shown hanging from a gold coil, which would have been placed around the wearer's neck. Turquoises were important elements in jewelry design at the time when this drawing was created, borrowing inspiration from the Maghreb and other African Mediterranean cultures. They could have been replaced by blue enamel or blue-colored glass stones in the manufacturing of the jewel, both techniques widely used at the time. The design lies over a black gouache background inside a cream and black ink lithograph frame.