Design for a Silver or Platinum Brooch with Blue Stones in a Scrapbook with Jewelry Designs in Watercolor and Gouache
Not on view
Drawing with a design for a brooch with blue stones, part of a modern scrapbook with 38 sheets showing designs for jewelry with pearls, diamonds and other (semi-)precious stones all done in watercolor and heightened with gold, characteristic of the period between 1870 and 1930, which saw some of the most extravagant and innovative trends in jewelry design. By the second half of the nineteenth century, the naturalistic compositions of earlier decades had become more complex, and the colors in nature were mimicked by the color of gemstones used for jewelry design. In the last years of the century, designs for jewelry had become even more elaborate and relied in the natural beauty of cabochon gems, curving, and figurative designs with symbolic meaning, typical of the Arts and Crafts movement. Towards the end of the nineteenth and through the first decades of the twentieth century, diamond jewelry was re-interpreted to create the new 'garland style', and the Art Nouveau movement created sinuous and organic pieces that moved away from conventional stones and put emphasis on the subtle effects of materials such as glass, horn and enamel. During the 1920s, the economic boom following the war saw an increased glamour in jewelry design, with sharp, geometric patterns that celebrated modernity and the machine age. Art Deco jewelry is characterized by dense concentrations of gemstones and the use of platinum in place of gold, with inspiration from all over the world, especially from the Near and Far East. Like most of the drawings in the album, this design is fully rendered with gouache, showing not only the styles for the jewelry designs, but also suggesting choices of precious metals, stones, and other materials to be used in the creation of the jewels. It is also possible that these designs are real-sized, allowing the customer to visualize the jewel fully from this presentation drawings before commissioning its manufacture.
This design for a brooch is made up of a six point star with a blue stone in the center inside a circular frame with four blue stones, two of which are placed inside a lozenge. There are four additional blue stones, flanked by two pearls, which are placed between the star an the frame. Two scrolls hang from the bottom vertex of the lozenges, joining under the blue stone in the bottom of the frame; another blue stone is placed under the union of the scrolls, with a pear-shape blue stone hanging from it. Two other pear-shape blue stones hang from the scrolls on its sides. The design might have been intended to be made out of silver or platinum, which was particularly common in Art Deco, and the stones could have been replaced by blue glass, a technique used often at the time.
