Coat
Designer Charles James American
Textile manufactured by F. Ducharne Silk Company
Not on view
This short coat or jacket is similar in concept to late nineteenth-century dolmans, which were capelike wraps with sleeves. The prototype for James’s design was a cape for his infant son, Charles Jr. It had elliptically cut armholes to help the child orient his arms upward instead of splaying outward. When the designer adapted the style for adults, he replaced the infant’s sleeve pattern with one derived from the connecting elbow joint of a sewer pipe.
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