Ball gown

Fascinated by construction but without formal training, Walker established her couture house in 1977. Her work tends toward lean, glamorously fluid pieces, often with a vintage influence and always with a focus on the midriff. Here, on the right, pleated and flowing chiffon lengthens the torso with a fitted halter bodice, dropped waist, and plunging back veiled only by the thinnest of self fabric streamers. The strapless neckline on the left similarly showcases strong shoulders and exploits a lowered waistline. Both designs are poised without being rigid, poetic without being overworked.

These two romantic gowns embody the legendary image and overwhelming impact of style icon Diana, princess of Wales. Clothes were a professional obligation and personal obsession for Diana, whose approach to style transcended fashion and yet single-handedly rejuvenated the British apparel industry in a calculated demonstration of national pride. Included by the princess in an unprecedented charity auction that exploited the public's fascination to garner millions for AIDS and cancer charities, these gowns were part of an attempt to extend her philanthropic interests and, perhaps, to redefine her public image after her divorce. Her untimely death confers an iconic aspect on the pieces and on her extraordinary influence.