Cotton, other fibers; plain weave, printed, and painted
Textile: L. 23 in. (58.4 cm)
W.39 3/4 in. (101 cm)
Mount: L. 33 3/8 in. (84.8 cm)
W. 47 1/2 in. (120.7 cm)
D. 1 5/8 in. (4.1 cm)
Textiles-Painted and/or Printed
Gift of George D. Pratt, 1931
Not on view
This repeat-patterned cloth is made from a mixture of silk and cotton known as mulham. Arab geographers localize the production of mulham to Iran and Central Asia. Mulham cloth may have decorations, mainly inscriptions, which were added by embroidering at the time of manufacture. A small number of examples, such as this one, bear patterns printed with different stamps on the glazed surface of the cloth. Here, lions in brown squares with pearl borders alternate with lions in squares of undyed fabric. The animals with floral elements and the squares with pearl borders are similar in style to those on glazed ceramic tiles from Ghazni, in eastern Afghanistan, the capital city of a dynasty that ruled from the tenth to the twelfth centuries.
George D. Pratt, New York (until 1931; gifted to MMA)
New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Fashion and Virtue: Textile Patterns and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620," October 20, 2015–January 10, 2016, fig. 2.
Dimand, Maurice S. A Handbook of Muhammadan Art. 2nd rev. and enl. ed. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1944. p. 256, ill. fig. 166 (b/w).
Speelberg, Femke. "Fashion & Virtue: Textile Patterns and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620." Fashion & Virtue: Textile Patterns and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620 vol. 73, no. 2 (Fall 2015). p. 7, ill. fig. 2 (color).