Brooch

This lovely brooch features a large faceted citrine surrounded by floral sprays, twisting grape vines of chased gold, and grape clusters of seed pearls. The piece is stamped "14KT" and has an applied plaque marked "BELL," representing the Denver gem dealer George Bell. The design of the brooch, however, has been attributed to Gustav Manz.

Born in Germany in 1865, Gustav Manz studied the art and design of jewelry in Paris, England, and South Africa before immigrating to the United States in 1893. Because Manz made his living as a manufacturing jeweler, the majority of his pieces are marked by retailers, including such prominent firms as Tiffany & Co., Marcus & Co., and Black, Starr & Frost, rather than with Manz’s own name. However, owing to the survival of some of Manz’s journals and business records containing over two thousand of his jewelry designs, it is possible to attribute many unsigned pieces to his shop. This brooch is a wonderful example of Manz’s interpretation of the Arts & Crafts style and a testament to his unique aesthetic, creative use of gemstones, and impressive carving skills.