Painted chintz

This symmetrical disc fabric was likely intended to serve as a ceremonial fan, supported on a frame (bamboo or rattan) and mounted on a pole for display as a standard. Such fans were deployed both in court settings, and in shrines to honor the deity under worship. The absence of any religious imagery or symbolism in the design suggests that it was probably intended for secular use. The roundel is painted in kalamkari, employing both resist-dying, mordant-resist and hand painting techniques. It was then embellished with delicately applied glued gold superimposed over the painted design as highlights. Painted cottons of this type were popularly known in the West from at least the 16th century as chint/chit/chita/chintz, and in Japan from the 17th century, as sarasa. This example was likely produced at a textile production center on the northern Coromandel coast, perhaps in the vicinity of Masulipatam, the historic port city that served Golconda, capital of the greatest of the Deccan Sultanates.