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Designer: Emanuel Ungaro (French, born 1933)

Date: 1967

Culture: French

Medium: cotton

Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Leonard Holzer, 1970

Accession Number: 1970.89.1a–c

Description

As fashion's last absolute decree entered its concluding phase, skirts became shorter and shorter until they atrophied into short shorts, or, in the phrase of the day, hot pants. In a couture playsuit with matching leggings, the elastic fabric has been hand-appliquéd with white braid. In the youth-impassioned tumult of the time, there was an equivocation between Warhol superstar and couture client. As self-consciously insurrectionist as the political gesture is, the craft of the garment is, like Chanel's "little black dress," traditional.

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