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Daimyo Firefighter’s Ensemble (Kaji shōzoku) for Samurai Woman

first half 19th century

Not on view

The luxurious red wool (rasha) jacket worn by a high-ranking samurai woman on fire duty is extravagantly decorated with crashing waves, water droplets, and anchors. The dynamic composition refers to the processes of extinguishing a fire and pulling down smoldering buildings and also symbolizes security. The quality of the gold-thread embroidery is excellent, with various gold couching techniques and French knots on the tassels, which are attached to the cords of the anchors. Five crests with a motif of three oak leaves, possibly the Yamauchi family crest, are depicted on the jacket. The hood (zukin) indicates that this set was made for a woman, as male firefighters wore helmets. A matching plastron, or breastplate, and hakama pants would have completed the ensemble. High-ranking samurai women, especially those living in the women’s quarter of Edo Castle, were trained to evacuate and assist people during fires. They carried spears (naginata) to defend the fleeing occupants (mainly other women) and patrolled the grounds.

Daimyo Firefighter’s Ensemble (Kaji shōzoku) for Samurai Woman, Wool (rasha) with satin-weave silk appliqué and silk- and gold-thread embroidery, Japan — Due to rights restrictions, this image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

Daimyo Firefighter’s Ensemble (Kaji shōzoku) for Samurai Woman, Wool (rasha) with satin-weave silk appliqué and silk- and gold-thread embroidery, Japan

Daimyo Firefighter’s Ensemble (Kaji shōzoku) for Samurai Woman, Wool (rasha) with satin-weave silk appliqué and silk- and gold-thread embroidery, Japan

Daimyo Firefighter’s Ensemble (Kaji shōzoku) for Samurai Woman, Wool (rasha) with satin-weave silk appliqué and silk- and gold-thread embroidery, Japan

Daimyo Firefighter’s Ensemble (Kaji shōzoku) for Samurai Woman, Wool (rasha) with satin-weave silk appliqué and silk- and gold-thread embroidery, Japan

Daimyo Firefighter’s Ensemble (Kaji shōzoku) for Samurai Woman, Wool (rasha) with satin-weave silk appliqué and silk- and gold-thread embroidery, Japan

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Due to rights restrictions, this image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

Due to rights restrictions, this image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

Due to rights restrictions, this image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

Due to rights restrictions, this image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

Due to rights restrictions, this image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

大名奥方火事装束

Title: Daimyo Firefighter’s Ensemble (Kaji shōzoku) for Samurai Woman

Period: Edo period (1615–1868)

Date: first half 19th century

Culture: Japan

Medium: Wool (rasha) with satin-weave silk appliqué and silk- and gold-thread embroidery

Dimensions: Jacket (a): 47 5/8 × 41 1/2 in. (121 × 105.4 cm)
Hooded cap (b): 36 1/2 × 24 1/2 in. (92.7 × 62.2 cm)

Classification: Costumes

Credit Line: Lent by John C. Weber Collection

Accession Number: WT.Weber.16a, b

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