Journal des Dames et des Modes, No. 44 (10 August 1913)

44th issue of the "Journal des dames et des modes", published on August 10, 1913. This issue forms part of the first half of a collection of 36 volumes of the Journal des dames et des modes (June 1, 1913 - May 20, 1914, numbers 37-72), and contains 2 unnumbered leaves of advertisements, 8 pages of text (numbered (33)-38), and one plate (numbered 101), illustrated by Georges Barbier. This issue begins with a letter to the editor criticizing the love of women for fashion, whose latest fad requires them to reveal the figure under the clothes they wear, at the expense of their "natural" role as virtuous mothers, as explained by Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Another article in the journal explores the Indian Fashions, which should be adopted by women who want to "be irresistible", and should include turbans, "aigrette" tiaras and other headpieces. Finally, the fashion section of the journal reveals a trend for small hats, made with oilcloth, to protect their wearers from the rain, the use of white dresses made with embroidered linen at the beach, and the vogue for dresses made of waffle fabrics: crepes de chine in bright colors for the night, and a combination of mauve and black for the day. However, the text suggests it would be impossible to wear such dresses in the rain, since the waffle finish would disappear with the lightest touch of humidity.

The "Journal des dames et des modes" was published in Paris by Vaugirard between June 1, 1912 and August 1, 1914. Inspired on an earlier journal of the same title (also known as "La Mésangère", which disappeared in 1839), the "Journal des dames et des modes" appealed to "the curious", lovers of rare editions, who valued fashion journals featuring limited editions with carefully executed fashion illustrations that could be equated to works of art. Each issue of the journal was made up of several texts, including poems, commentaries, and narrations of life in Paris, and hand-colored engravings or pochoir prints, executed in vivid colors and drawn by the leading artists of the day, including George Barbier, Antoine Vallée, Léon Bakst, and Umberto Brunelleschi. The combination of writings and illustrations was meant to be a reflection of the cultural atmosphere in Paris at the time, showcasing the best of intellectual, artistic and fashion creations.