Orchid Necklace

The American costume jeweler Miriam Haskell distinguished her firm’s work from that of her peers through the quality of its handmade construction. Though made of relatively humble and inexpensive materials, the jewelry shows the firm's sensitivity to the particular characteristics of each material that when combined, results in unexpected visual effects. This necklace, for example, features medallions composed of the dull dark sheen of leaf-like metal findings set against the luminous variegated gold accents of Venetian beads and the rose-peach translucence of pearl-like pate de verre beads. Each resembles a kind of abstracted orchid bud leading to a central orchid pendant in full bloom. The botanic forms with their freeform lines gesture toward the kind of organic modern style that was so popular in the United States at mid-twentieth century. Haskell continued her involvement with the firm until 1950, when her brother purchased the company. This piece was designed by Robert F. Clark, one of the firm’s more talented designers.