This bold silver ornament comes from the world of the Turkmen tribes of Central Asia. Some of the forms, such as the lozenge-shaped pectoral pieces, relate to the styles of jeweled arts of the courts and urban centers while most of these large and vibrant ornaments are a final expression of the unique sensibility of the Turkmen people as their nomadic life gives way to modernity.
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Artwork Details
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Title:Pectoral Ornament
Date:late 19th–early 20th century
Geography:Attributed to Central Asia or Iran
Medium:Silver; with openwork and stamped bead decoration, table-cut carnelians and turquoise beads, and silver link chains with coral and mother-of-pearl beads
Dimensions:Various - See object list
Classification:Jewelry
Credit Line:Gift of Marshall and Marilyn R. Wolf, 2021
Accession Number:2021.39.1
Lozenge-Shaped Pectoral Ornaments with Floral Designs (MMA 2017.693.6, MMA 2014.714.11, MMA 2016.714.9, MMA 2013.968.12, MMA 2022.465.11, and MMA 2021.39.1)
In addition to cross-shaped and lozenge-within-lozenge design formats, the third type of lozenge-shaped clasp is represented by five works, each decorated with centered floral designs. The first five (nos. 2017.693.6, 2014.714.11, 2016.714.9, 2022.465.11. and 2013.968.12) are of Teke manufacture; no. 2017.693.6 presents an intermediary type using both the cross shape and floral ornament, while nos. 2014.714.11, 2016.714.9, 2022.465.11, and 2013.968.12 all feature centered floral designs in openwork or fire gilding.
The Turkmen skill at using the decorative repertoire to great effect is well illustrated by no. 2013.968.12: a central lobed medallion is framed by split-leaf and palmette designs in the main field and the border is decorated with similar palmettes, while five carnelians are placed at the center of the medallion and the encircling palmettes.
The last work in this group (no. 2021.39.1) is of uncertain origin and presents both Central Asian and Turkmen design features. Similar works have been assigned to Tajikistan and Ersari manufacture and the use of turquoises in conjunction with carnelians and the setting of small turquoise beads recalls an amulet holder (no. 2009.530.13a, .b) also of uncertain origin. In any case, the design is intermediary between that of the lozenge-shaped clasps using floral decorative motifs, such as no. 2013.968.12, and that of the floral-shaped clasps discussed in the following section.
Layla S. Diba in [Diba 2011]
Marshall and Marilyn R. Wolf, Toronto, Canada (by 2006–2021; gifted to MMA)
Diba, Layla S. "Silver Ornaments from the Marshall and Marilyn R. Wolf Collection." In Turkmen Jewelry. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011. no. 108, pp. 154–55, ill.
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