Cocktail dress

Although the bodice of this dress has center front, center back, and side seams, its second-skin fit was accomplished by molding the bust à calage (steaming in the shape) and using back shoulder darts. The body of the dress has center front and center back seams. A long dart curves from under the arm over the front hipbone and into the low front cowl. With its high neckline, shoulder line extending into a cap sleeve, and sheathlike fit, this James design suggests the exotic influence of the Chinese qi pao, a style promoted at the time by another American couturier, Mainbocher, on his client Wallis, the Duchess of Windsor.