Scrapbook with Jewelry Designs in Watercolor

Scrapbook with 22 sheets showing designs for jewelry with pearls, diamonds and other (semi-)precious stones all done in watercolor and heightened with gold. The designs for jewelry contained in the scrapbook are characteristic of the period between second half of the nineteenth century and the first three decades of the twentieth, which saw some of the most extravagant and innovative trends in jewelry design.
By the 1850s, the naturalistic compositions of the early decades of the nineteenth century had become more complex, the colors in nature mimicked by the color of gemstones used for jewelry design. In the last years of the century, designs for jewelry had become even more elaborate and relied in the natural beauty of cabochon gems, curving, and figurative designs with symbolic meaning, typical of the Arts and Crafts movement in the decorative arts.
Towards the end of the nineteenth and through the first decades of the twentieth century, diamond jewelry from the early decades of the century was re-interpreted to create the new 'garland style', which was fashionable along with sinuous and organic pieces that moved away from conventional stones and put emphasis on the subtle effects of materials such as glass, horn and enamel, typical of the Art Nouveau movement.
During the 1920s, the economic boom following the war saw an increased glamour in jewelry design, with sharp, geometric patterns that celebrated modernity and the machine age. Art Deco jewelry is characterized by dense concentrations of gemstones and the use of platinum in place of gold. The increased globalization of the world also saw inspirations from all over the world in jewelry design, especially from the Near and Far East. By this time, fashions were not only emerging from Paris, but New York had become an important rival, with both fashion and jewelry houses creating unique design styles. Additionally, artists and designers from other fields became involved in jewelry design, bringing in a variety of new perspectives to the field.
Most of the drawings in the album are fully rendered with gouache, showing not only the styles for the jewelry designs, but also suggesting choices of precious metals, stones, and other materials to be used in the creation of the jewels. It is also possible that these designs are real-sized, allowing the customer to visualize the jewel fully from this presentation drawings before commissioning its manufacture.