"Shades of Picasso"

In this dress the half-collar, or bertha, has slipped to the mid-bodice, where it is held in place by a loose piece of fabric that Adrian called a "sling." The construction of his "Modern Museum" dresses was unique and inimitable. Since pattern pieces were inset rather than applied, each seam needed to be perfect. Pinning or basting the fabric distorts the seam line and leaves marks on the fabric. According to Adrian's assistant, the wrong side of the fabric was marked very lightly to show where the seams should match. The two pieces of fabric had to be held in place by hand during stitching. With curved seams, the machine's foot would be raised while the needle was in the fabric, the fabric turned around the needle, then the presser foot lowered.