Art/ Collection/ Art Object
{{img.publicCaption}}

Fragmentary Loom Width with Wavy-vine Pattern

Object Name:
Fragment
Date:
ca. 1565–80
Geography:
Attributed to Turkey, probably Istanbul
Culture:
Islamic
Medium:
Silk, metal wrapped thread; lampas (kemha)
Dimensions:
Textile: L. 48 in. (121.9 cm) W. 26 1/2 in. (67.3 cm) Mount: L. 53 1/4 in. (135.3 cm) W. 32 in. (81.3 cm) D. 1 in. (2.5 cm)
Classification:
Textiles
Credit Line:
Purchase, Joseph Pulitzer Bequest, 1952
Accession Number:
52.20.21
Not on view
Spectacular, large‑pattern silks were favored materials for luxury garments among the courtly elite of sixteenth-century Istanbul, and were often used for the bold, richly colored caftans of the Ottoman sultans. The weave here, referred to in Turkish as kemha, incorporates metal‑wrapped thread into a lampas, or multiweave fabric. Ottoman kemha fabrics typically combine a satin ground with a design executed in twill and highlighted with gold. Catching the light, their glittering patterns appear to float above a shimmering background.
Dikran G. Kelekian, New York (by 1926–d. 1951; his estate, New York, 1951–52;sold to MMA)
University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology. "Special Persian Exhibition," 1926, no. 598.

Museum für Islamische Kunst, Pergamonmuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. "The Arts of Islam. Masterpieces from the M.M.A.," June 15, 1981–August 8, 1981, no. 113.

Washington. National Gallery of Art, Washington D.C. "The Age of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent," January 25, 1987–May 17, 1987, no. 147.

Chicago. Art Institute of Chicago. "The Age of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent," June 14, 1987–September 7, 1987, no. 147.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "The Age of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent," October 4, 1987–January 17, 1988, no. 147.

Boston. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. "Silks for the Sultans: Ottoman textiles and their legacy," April 22, 1994–September 4, 1994.

New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "The Nature of Islamic Ornament Part II: Vegetal Patterns," September 10, 1998–January 10, 1999, no catalogue.

Washington. Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, Smithsonian Institution. "Style and Substance: Imperial Costumes from Ottoman Turkey," October 29, 2005–January 22, 2006.

Pope, Arthur Upham. "Special Persian Exhibition." Bulletin of the Pennsylvania Museum Vol. XXII, no. 107 (November 1926). pp. 245-251.

Ettinghausen, Richard. "Islamic Art." Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin vol. 33, no. 1 (Spring 1975). p. 36, ill. (color).

Atil, Esin, ed. Turkish Art. Washington, D.C and New York: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1980. pp. 354-355, ill. fig. 206 (b/w).

"Masterpieces from The Metropolitan Museum of Art New York." In The Arts of Islam. Berlin, 1981. no. 113, pp. 266-267, ill. p. 267 (color).

Atil, Esin. The Age of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent. Washington, DC: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1987. no. 147, pp. 212-213, ill. pl. 147 (color).

Welch, Stuart Cary. The Islamic World. vol. 11. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1987. no. 88, p. 118, ill. fig. 88 (color).

de Montebello, Philippe, and Kathleen Howard, ed. The Metropolitan Museum of Art Guide. 6th ed. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1992. p. 327, ill. fig. 36 (color).

Ekhtiar, Maryam, Sheila R. Canby, Navina Haidar, and Priscilla P. Soucek, ed. Masterpieces from the Department of Islamic Art in The Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1st ed. ed. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011. no. 228, pp. 287, 320-321, ill. p. 320-1 (color).

The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art Guide. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2012. p. 138, ill. (color).



Related Objects

Fragment

Date: mid-16th century Medium: Silk, metal wrapped thread; lampas (kemha) Accession: 52.20.22 On view in:Not on view

Textile Fragment

Date: ca. 1570–80 Medium: Silk, metal wrapped thread; lampas (kemha) Accession: 44.41.2 On view in:Gallery 460

Fragment of a Kaftan Back

Date: mid-16th century Medium: Silk, metal wrapped thread; taqueté (seraser) Accession: 52.20.15 On view in:Not on view

Tughra (Official Signature) of Sultan Süleiman the Magnificent (r. 1520–66)

Date: ca. 1555–60 Medium: Ink, opaque watercolor, and gold on paper Accession: 38.149.2 On view in:Gallery 460

"The Angel Gabriel meets 'Amr ibn Zaid (the Shepherd)", Folio from a Siyer-i Nebi (the Life of the Prophet)

Date: ca. 1595 Medium: Ink, opaque watercolor, and gold on paper Accession: 1994.141 On view in:Gallery 460