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Fragmentary Loom Width with Wavy-vine Pattern

Object Name:
Fragment
Date:
ca. 1565–80
Geography:
Turkey, probably Istanbul
Culture:
Islamic
Medium:
Silk, metal wrapped thread; lampas (kemha)
Dimensions:
Textile: L. 48 in. (121.9 cm) W. 26 1/2 in. (67.3 cm) Mount: L. 53 1/4 in. (135.3 cm) W. 32 in. (81.3 cm) D. 1 in. (2.5 cm)
Classification:
Textiles
Credit Line:
Purchase, Joseph Pulitzer Bequest, 1952
Accession Number:
52.20.21
Not on view
Spectacular, large‑pattern silks were favored materials for luxury garments among the courtly elite of sixteenth-century Istanbul, and were often used for the bold, richly colored caftans of the Ottoman sultans. The weave here, referred to in Turkish as kemha, incorporates metal‑wrapped thread into a lampas, or multiweave fabric. Ottoman kemha fabrics typically combine a satin ground with a design executed in twill and highlighted with gold. Catching the light, their glittering patterns appear to float above a shimmering background.
Dikran G. Kelekian, New York (by 1926–d. 1951; his estate, New York, 1951–52;sold to MMA)
Atil, Esin, ed. Turkish Art. Washington, D.C and New York: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1980. pp. 354-355, ill. fig. 206 (b/w).

Ettinghausen, Richard. "Islamic Art." Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin vol. 33, no. 1 (Spring 1975). p. 36, ill. (color).

"Masterpieces from The Metropolitan Museum of Art New York." In The Arts of Islam. Berlin, 1981. no. 113, pp. 266-267, ill. p. 267 (color).

Welch, Stuart Cary. The Islamic World. vol. 11. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1987. no. 88, p. 118, ill. fig. 88 (color).

Atil, Esin. The Age of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent. Washington, DC: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1987. no. 147, pp. 212-213, ill. pl. 147 (color).

The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art Guide. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2012. p. 138, ill. (color).

de Montebello, Philippe, and Kathleen Howard, ed. The Metropolitan Museum of Art Guide. 6th ed. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1992. p. 327, ill. fig. 36 (color).

Ekhtiar, Maryam, Sheila R. Canby, Navina Haidar, and Priscilla P. Soucek, ed. Masterpieces from the Department of Islamic Art in The Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1st ed. ed. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011. no. 228, pp. 287, 320-321, ill. p. 320-1 (color).



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